Monday, February 28, 2011

Saturday, February 26, 2011

La Dolce Vita

Lest our posts give the impression that life in Italy always runs according to script, that each morning we rise, eat a sumptuous breakfast as attendants give us neck rubs and wash our feet, glide effortlessly to our first appointment with nary a missed turn,

Friday, February 25, 2011


Just a quick post this morning, as today is a travel day. We leave Friuli and our new love, the Collio, to head southwest toward Venice for two nights in Treviso. Along the way we hope to stop in medieval Cividale del Friuli. More on that later.

Thursday, February 24, 2011

More on Grappa

Several days ago, I posted my definitive guide to grappa, having visted the purported birthplace of this semi-toxic beverage. Thank you to alert reader Jeff Gilleran of Alexandria, Virginia (apologies Dave Barry) for pointing out a grievous omission to my story.


As we continue to tear pages from our calendar, we welcome our new readers - thanks and welcome to both of you! You are joining an elite fraternity of people dedicated to the enjoyment of all things Italian. And when I say elite, I mean dozens!

Wednesday, February 23, 2011


Over the past week we have, as is our habit here in Italy, been eating and drinking our way across the country. From Trento to Riva del Garda to Bassano del Grappa to Maristoca to Capriva del Friuli to Gorizia. From salmon carpaccio to bigoli all'anitra to pork with horseradish to frico to bear. From muller thurgau to grappa del Trentino to aperitivo to tokai friulano. It has indeed been a heck of a week. And that doesn't even include the German portion of our trip.

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Grin and Bear It

I was barely able to contain myself when dinner was served.
What wine do you drink with bear?

Tooth Be Told

An unexpected bite at breakfast this morning lands Suzy at the dentist for some emergency restorative work. Amazing how similar Italian dentistry is to American, right down to the screams of pain. The major difference? The cost!

More photos upon request (or subscription fee).


A view from the Endrizzi winery
These are the sorts of experiences we come to Italy for.

Monday, February 21, 2011

Enoteca Dinner (live)

Having a small dinner/snack at the regional enoteca in the nearby town of Cormons. The wine, a Friulano (formerly called Tokai) from a very small producer (Vosca). What a treat. Great nose and complex taste.

Prosciutto di San Daniele

A softer version found in Friuli. We're enjoying this small plate at lunch. Good thing we ordered just one!


In addition to being the home of Italy's best white wines, northern Italy is also the home of, if not the birthplace of Italy's most famous (or infamous) distillate - grappa. Unlike just about everyone we know, we have been lovers of grappa since our very first first sip.

Sunday, February 20, 2011

Day One in Friuli

Pork with horseradish (kren)

Friuli wine and grappa


Onward to the Veneto

Captain, I think we need a bigger car.
It is time to leave Trento to head an hour and a half east from the region of Trentino to the Veneto. Unfortunately, after three days in Italy we realize that maybe we should have bought a larger car.

Buon Giorno

The best part of waking up is not Folgers in your cup.

Saturday, February 19, 2011

Bassano del Grappa

Arrived today in Bassano del Grappa, birthplace of grappa. The pilgrimage begins.


Piazza Duomo in Trento
Gotta say it. We really like Trentino. I know it is extremely superficial to make such sweeping generalizations based on a couple of days' experience  and a limited number of personal encounters. But to us (so far), Trentino is the best possible combination of Italian charm, warmth and taste (both stylistic and culinary) and German/Austrian efficiency, cleanliness and purposefulness. Getting that combination right is fortuitous. It could have turned out like Hell in the famous joke

Friday, February 18, 2011

Thursday, February 17, 2011


Munich is going to force us to rethink what we think about Germany.

Wednesday, February 16, 2011


It's our second day in Germany and as we begin to shake off the effects of jetlag (this will likely take two or three days) we begin to make those keen insights that our readers have come to expect. I hope it won't seem too presumptuous of me to be making sweeping generalizations and authoritative statements about a country that we have been exposed to for less than 36 hours, but that is why my readers pay me the big euros.

Monday, February 14, 2011


Mein Gott! Never would I have imagined that I would restart the chronicling of our Italian adventures from Germany. But this morgen as we landed in fog shrouded Munich, our five week adventure, most of it to be spent in Italy, began in earnest. Or perhaps in Ernst.

Saturday, February 12, 2011

The Month in Food

Wow! What an incredible last 30 days!

In early January we were visited by our good friend Simone Proietti-Pesci, the chef-owner of the fabulous restaurant le Delizie del Borgo in Bevagna,

Saturday, February 5, 2011

Mobile blogging

Just testing the new android mobile blogging app. Looking forward to using this on our upcoming trip to Italy.